Monday, January 17, 2000

The Rain in Spain Falls Gently on the Train . . .

Buon Giorno, All!

This is going to be a quick and dirty update for my time in Spain! Let's just say its length will correspond proportionately to my Spanish speaking abilities!

So, when I left you last I had just arrived in Madrid. My train bunkmates on the way to Madrid included two Aussies, two Argentinians and one older man who we think was Spanish. He traveled with a large box that took up nearly our whole compartment, a dolly to transport the box and another dolly he had not yet unwrapped. He woke us all more than an hour before our train arrived in Madrid by clapping happily and singing a song of which the chorus was "Santa Maria." No one in the compartment had heard this song before. We suspect, however, that it was used to rouse his children each day, which explains his solo state of travel when we made his acquaintance. Seriously, though, he seemed very nice and was actually quiet until he displayed his horrifying tendencies toward morning cheerfulness.

I must admit that Madrid was not my very favorite city I visited (and I feel very lucky not to have been there today when the 2 terrorist bombs went off). On the bright side, I loved two of the big museums there, explored a bullfighter bar with my new Aussie friends, enjoyed playing photographer around the huge Parc Retiro, caught up on some shopping and had a FANTASTIC meal at Botin . . . thanks for the restaurant recommendation, David Radman! I loved my meal even though my view throughout it included an entire leg of a cow (in the process of being shaved for inclusion in various dishes) and a man who was right out of The Godfather. Also at Botin, I met some incredibly funny Brits who tried to take me out dancing. They had the classic British dry sense of humor and made me laugh like crazy. One of them manages a pub, the two brothers and their friend live in Gibraltar and run the power company there and the oldest one of the bunch (Ken) was a fighter pilot for Britain in World War II and described for me the ceremony in which he received a medal for his service from the Queen. We were treated to traditional Spanish music by some university students who play at the restaurants for extra money.

The next day, I took a day trip to Toledo, a charming town built on hills with very twisted streets and medieval architecture. In the station, I made friends with Maria, who made sure I found my train. She teaches English to adults and is happy to have retired from teaching children of middle school age. As if to reinforce this point, Maria and I encountered on the train a group of 10 and 11 year olds on their way home from a field trip to one of Madrid's museums. Three of these boys (Angel, Ruben and Alberto) sat across from us. According to Maria, they were very curious about me and conferred amongst themselves regarding how to start a conversation with me. I took the bull by the horns (this being Spain, after all) and asked them in Spanish what their names were. Next thing I knew, a flood of perfect English questions poured forth from the boys and their friends. One little girl shouted out her address and invited me to stay with her and her parents. I would love to see the looks on their faces if an American girl with a huge backpack showed up at their house! I know that my photo of the boys and myself together will be one of my favorites from the trip!

Once I reached Toledo, I saw a gorgeous cathedral and even heard the organ play in it (these organs are as big as a whole room (and then some) in our typical house). I was impressed by the dedication of a couple of Japanese guys who were wheeling around their father in his wheelchair on the steep and bumpy cobblestone streets. The city was very beautiful and even the long walk back to the train station offered wonderful views of the surrounding area and skyline of the city.

I left Madrid after three days and headed to Granada, home of the Alhambra. See this week's picture! It was an amazing set of palaces on a hilltop with an incredible view of the Sierra Nevada. Although the mountains were snow-covered, I was walking around without a jacket most of the time! I also completed a very long hike up to a monastery above the Alhambra. It was a whirlwind day, however, because I was catching a night train to Barcelona.

Barcelona is the city I would plan if I could design my own town . . . ocean, mountains, great architecture, interesting museums, wonderful food and cultural events and a very cool aquarium. I stayed in a youth hostel that served beer from a vending machine . . . not something you often see in the States! The hostel was very convenient, too, right on the Placa Reial and just a stone's throw from Las Ramblas, a length of street that people walk up and down. It's crowded with florists, bird sellers, mimes, newsstands, hard to explain, but very social and fun. I loved Antoni Gaudi's modernist buildings and the Picasso museum best of everything I saw.

Well, I need to run because I am attending a classical music concert this evening. I am in Siena, Italy right now, which will be featured prominently in the next update!

Ciao!

Lisa

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