Journey to Castellina di Chianti
I am in lovely Castellina di Chianti now, having also woken up early (7:30 am, a half-hour before my adjusted wake-up call!) and caught the early train to Florence. (On the way, I finished Dario's book about his tour experiences, which I even read for a bit after we hung up last night . . . have emailed him re a tour for me and am hoping to hear from him today! I am even willing to change my Florence plans if necessary, as I think that a tour of this area with a true local would be unforgettable.)
From Firenze, I connected to a train to CdC--actually, as CdC does not have its very own train station, landed in the nearest Dia-forsaken (see, "Sex and the City" CAN be educational!) place with only one bus a day, which was not to depart for CdC until 2pm (it was then Noon and hot as could be). Was feeling slightly desperate (not to mention sweaty) when I happened upon the kindest inn operator ever . . . he called a (more accurately, "the") cab for me, as I had another 10 kilometers to go to this town, and invited me to share his air conditioning while I waited. I could have hugged him, he was SO nice. Next, I nearly lost my life in the taxi due to high speeds, narrow roads and tight curves, but I guess there are worse ways to go than gazing out at beautiful vineyards in Tuscany. :)
Upon arriving safely in CdC (to my great surprise), I found that my room at the Palazzo Squarcialupi is embarrassingly spacious and decadent . . . as it turns out, this is the one that is 140 Euros, while yesterday's was a bargain at 80 Euros (a fact I learned at checkout). This room's view is also beautiful and there is a garden with cushioned deck chairs below that I may have to experience before my departure.
The room itself is huge, with stucco walls, wood beams on the ceiling, a huge writing desk at which one could certainly write a book if one wanted to do such a thing, a sitting area with 2 (2!) small couches, an earth-sized bed and a very fancy marble bathroom.
I have already explored most of the town and eaten at the best restaurant so far of my visit . . . the tomatoes in my mozzarella and tomato salad were so perfectly red and luscious that I almost had tears in my eyes upon seeing and tasting them. Is that the sign of a food explorer gone over the edge? I adored my waiter, whom I permitted to choose my entire meal for me except the salad . . . he did not let me down, as the chianti (a San Leonardio?) was lovely and the ravioli with local truffles exquisite. We are now fast friends and I think I may even return there for dinner. (postscript: now I cannot recall the name of this place . . . it was off a square on a street above the main street through town, and I believe it may have had "black" and/or "rooster" in its name)
On my walk, I was charmed by this old man and woman:
I set out to find Etruscan tombs and saw some beautiful scenery along the way:
Regarding the tombs, they are set in a mound of earth--these are the various entrances I passed:
And a detail of the many layers that make up this structure:
On my way back to town, I saw some German bikers:
And a truffle hunter:
(This is one of my favorite photos . . . I loved the solitary and determined truffle hunter).
I stopped for a while in a small cafe/bar, which served all manner of treats and drinks. I relaxed, wrote in my journal, read for a bit and dreamed for a bit. I understood not a single word being spoken around me, but I did not feel alone because I was spending time with people who value relaxation and friendly words and contentment.
After a while, I started toward my hotel, picking up some wine, bread and cheese for a small dinner along the way. I also procured a painting (to be mailed to my home) that will hang in my bedroom, to remind me of this wonderful place. The artist depicted a Tuscan farm, with tall, thin Cypress trees guarding it from the wide surrounds of a golden-colored field. The painting is framed with a 3-inch deep piece of raw wood, but a thin and elegant gold leave frame adds a bit of shine between the warm scene of the land and the rough expanse of wood frame surrounding it. I love it.
This woman amused me as she peeked out her window:
And then I stepped into the cool hallways of my hotel, found my way to the back patio overlooking the landscape and tucked in with a warm drink until it became too cool to stay outside. I reluctantly came inside and had a nice chat with some women visiting from the U.S. before returning to my beloved room for dinner and a good read.
Couldn't have asked for a better day . . .
From Firenze, I connected to a train to CdC--actually, as CdC does not have its very own train station, landed in the nearest Dia-forsaken (see, "Sex and the City" CAN be educational!) place with only one bus a day, which was not to depart for CdC until 2pm (it was then Noon and hot as could be). Was feeling slightly desperate (not to mention sweaty) when I happened upon the kindest inn operator ever . . . he called a (more accurately, "the") cab for me, as I had another 10 kilometers to go to this town, and invited me to share his air conditioning while I waited. I could have hugged him, he was SO nice. Next, I nearly lost my life in the taxi due to high speeds, narrow roads and tight curves, but I guess there are worse ways to go than gazing out at beautiful vineyards in Tuscany. :)
Upon arriving safely in CdC (to my great surprise), I found that my room at the Palazzo Squarcialupi is embarrassingly spacious and decadent . . . as it turns out, this is the one that is 140 Euros, while yesterday's was a bargain at 80 Euros (a fact I learned at checkout). This room's view is also beautiful and there is a garden with cushioned deck chairs below that I may have to experience before my departure.
The room itself is huge, with stucco walls, wood beams on the ceiling, a huge writing desk at which one could certainly write a book if one wanted to do such a thing, a sitting area with 2 (2!) small couches, an earth-sized bed and a very fancy marble bathroom.
I have already explored most of the town and eaten at the best restaurant so far of my visit . . . the tomatoes in my mozzarella and tomato salad were so perfectly red and luscious that I almost had tears in my eyes upon seeing and tasting them. Is that the sign of a food explorer gone over the edge? I adored my waiter, whom I permitted to choose my entire meal for me except the salad . . . he did not let me down, as the chianti (a San Leonardio?) was lovely and the ravioli with local truffles exquisite. We are now fast friends and I think I may even return there for dinner. (postscript: now I cannot recall the name of this place . . . it was off a square on a street above the main street through town, and I believe it may have had "black" and/or "rooster" in its name)
On my walk, I was charmed by this old man and woman:
I set out to find Etruscan tombs and saw some beautiful scenery along the way:
Regarding the tombs, they are set in a mound of earth--these are the various entrances I passed:
And a detail of the many layers that make up this structure:
On my way back to town, I saw some German bikers:
And a truffle hunter:
(This is one of my favorite photos . . . I loved the solitary and determined truffle hunter).
I stopped for a while in a small cafe/bar, which served all manner of treats and drinks. I relaxed, wrote in my journal, read for a bit and dreamed for a bit. I understood not a single word being spoken around me, but I did not feel alone because I was spending time with people who value relaxation and friendly words and contentment.
After a while, I started toward my hotel, picking up some wine, bread and cheese for a small dinner along the way. I also procured a painting (to be mailed to my home) that will hang in my bedroom, to remind me of this wonderful place. The artist depicted a Tuscan farm, with tall, thin Cypress trees guarding it from the wide surrounds of a golden-colored field. The painting is framed with a 3-inch deep piece of raw wood, but a thin and elegant gold leave frame adds a bit of shine between the warm scene of the land and the rough expanse of wood frame surrounding it. I love it.
This woman amused me as she peeked out her window:
And then I stepped into the cool hallways of my hotel, found my way to the back patio overlooking the landscape and tucked in with a warm drink until it became too cool to stay outside. I reluctantly came inside and had a nice chat with some women visiting from the U.S. before returning to my beloved room for dinner and a good read.
Couldn't have asked for a better day . . .
posted by Lisa at 10:01 AM
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