Friday, August 27, 2004

Pre-Birthday Trip to Santa Fe 2004

While preparing for this year's birthday trip to San Francisco, I cannot help but remember last year's wonderful birthday trip, which took me to Santa Fe. As I recall, last year's trip also occurred fairly spontaneously, when my work schedule cleared up enough to permit a quick getaway. So I headed off to Santa Fe for what I hoped would be a relaxing and rejuvenating time.

I began by driving directly from the Albuquerque airport to Ten Thousand Waves, a wonderful spa just outside the city. I didn't photograph it, but here is a picture I found on the web:



The spa is found on a hill (or small mountain) and one feels more relaxed just by breathing the clean-smelling air (a magical kind of air found throughout the countryside in New Mexico) and seeing the spare but beautiful Asian design of the place (photo from their web site):



Everything about this place is soothing, from the Asian decor to the trickling waterfalls everywhere, to the cool lemon water available to drink, to the fireplaces available for those who want warmth, to the citrusy shampoo and bath gel available for pre-treatment showers in the comfortable changing room. My first treatment of the day was a wonderful Thai massage:



(This isn't me, but is another picture from their web site that is meant to show how a Thai massage works.) I loved the airy pagoda in which my massage took place, which had breezes blowing through the open windows and permitted a view of the blue sky and surrounding trees. My massage therapist was Jane, a very cool painter and masseuse. The massage involves no oils and feels like a combination of assisted yoga and massage that involves the therapist using her hands, body weight and even sometimes her feet to push and pull you around. I was a bit nervous at first because I didn't know what to expect, but she did a good job of explaining what was happening while at the same time working quietly enough to permit me to dream of being in Japan. Afterward, I felt stretched like a cat and at least 2 inches taller. Then I was treated to a body wrap, which was soothing and warm and permitted me to stare at hanging flowers against the clear blue sky while feeling as if I was back in the womb.

As many visitors to Ten Thousand Waves do, I then relaxed in one of the many outdoor tubs, which at that time were free for use by anyone visiting for a spa treatment (it appears to me from their web site as if there may now be a separate charge for sitting in a tub):



I chose one of the women's tubs (no dog was present--the above pic is another from the spa's web site), which was an interesting experience in itself. Bathing suits are optional at the tubs, and I realized that the "comfort with public nakedness" culture of Santa Fe is really closer to that of Europe than that generally found in the U.S. (or at least the parts of the U.S. in which I have lived--the Midwest and Texas). One girl felt so comfortable that she sprawled on the deck reading a book, in a pose that one typically doesn't see another holding while naked. I quickly adjusted to the culture shock and relaxed in the tub, feeling the magic worked by the bubbles and the fresh air and the luxury of thinking about nothing in particular.

Reluctantly, I tore myself away to check into my hotel, the La Fonda. I love the La Fonda because it is reasonably priced, has funky room decor (every room is unique) and is located just off the central town square. My room was similar to this one, only with one bed instead of two (pic from the La Fonda web site):



I settled in and was off for dinner near the top of Canyon Road, where I dined at the Compound Restaurant, which instantly became a new favorite of mine (pic from their web site):



I adored its cool white stucco walls, simple interior and fabulous food.



Speaking of the food, I chose a nice salad (with bleu cheese), duck and the to-die-for melted chocolate cake dessert. There I also discovered a new favorite wine called Le Cigare Volant, from the Bonny Doon Vineyard in California. One could not want better service than is found at the Compound . . . the staff there is kind and informative.

The next morning, I was up early for a stroll around town, which began with breakfast at Cafe Pasqual's, which is one of my favorite places in Santa Fe. Pasqual's is an excellent breakfast destination, although they are open for other meals, too:



I chose to sit at the communal dining table, a massive wooden table in the middle of the restaurant, at which strangers tend to sit and chat about their travels. You can see the table in this picture from the restaurant's web site:



I ate one of my most beloved of their offerings, the chorizo burrito, then stumbled out to walk off my breakfast. Here is one of my favorite windows in Santa Fe:



And this is one of my favorite restaurant patios, although I didn't stop there for a bite to eat this time:



I also stumbled upon an outdoor chess tournament, the Santa Fe Chess Open:



This was the first outdoor chess tournament I had seen, and it has players of all ages and types:







(Note the Plato book at the side of the chess player in the last photo . . . that certainly piqued my curiosity!) I also did a little shopping at Doodlets:



They have a variety of charming and wacky offerings there, and I especially loved this display:



At Doodlets, I purchased this toy for my dog:



Speaking of politics, I saw many interesting bumper stickers during my stroll that made me feel as if I was more among "my people" here than I ever will be in Dallas, Texas:







The patio cafe for the Georia O'Keeffee Museum was hopping:



As was the square, where lots of tourists and natives may be found:









I sat in the square on one of the nice benches for a while, writing in my journal about the trip, then returned to the La Fonda to dress for my night at the Santa Fe Opera. Their opera house is wonderful, situated high on a hill just north of town. People are known to "tailgate" before the opera while enjoying the setting sun. I had never done that before, but thought this was the perfect time to start. So I stopped at the local grocery store and purchased some crackers, pate and salmon for a snack (I had procured a nice bottle of wine earlier from the local wine shop, where a very nice salesman gave me tips).

In the parking lot of the opera, I enjoyed my snack while overhearing what I believe were the first discussions of marriage between a young couple I had mistakenly pegged as being on their first date. I am nothing if not a talented eavesdropper! There was also an older couple, who pulled a small card table out of their trunk, then sat down to what appeared to be an entire home-cooked meal that they devoured from bowls just like those they use at home. And, in what I imagine also mirrored their dining experience at home, they did not speak a single word during the meal. Then we all had the good fortune to witness this gorgeous sunset:







As if that was not entertainment enough, we were then treated to a wonderful production of Simon Boccanegra, starring Patricia Racette, in this architecturally amazing opera house (photo from the Santa Fe Opera's web site):



One of my favorite aspects of this opera house, in addition to the high quality productions and the fresh air, is that there is a ledge with water rippling it it just between the front row and the orchestra pit, which reflects the sky and the performance. It is beautiful and soothing, like all of Santa Fe.

On my last day in town, I took a quick walk up Canyon Road, site of high-priced art or, viewed another way, free art galleries with interesting things to see. I cut my art walk short, however, in order to drive to Albuquerque to assist a group called America Coming Together with canvassing in advance of the 2004 Presidential election. This was my first experience with canvassing and I loved it, even in spite of a very hot late summer day in Albuquerque. The extremely smart and friendly (also progressive) staff offered us great equipment to assist us in finding the houses on our list and knowing a bit about who we would be seeing. My canvassing partner was a neat guy from Austin, Texas--he is the CFO for a company there. He was experienced in the art of canvassing and made it easy. I enjoyed meeting people and talking with them about the upcoming election, hearing about their concerns and wishes for their ideal candidate and sometimes even learning for whom they would vote. Most folks were ultimately happy to talk with us (even if reluctant at first) and provided us with helpful information. Back at the ACT offices, it was interesting to see some of the less-friendly communications received from the public at large, from the shaky handwriting of an old man telling ACT to "eat a shit sandwich" to a Hispanic woman offended that her ACT literature was written in Spanish, to Bush-loving folk calling ACT a Communist organization. I wished I had spent more time helping ACT, but enjoyed the time I did work with them and vowed to volunteer more before November.

So ended my lovely trip, with a hasty drive to the Albuquerque airport before flying back to Dallas.
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